Traverse.
I’m not much of a “trip report” guy, so here’s the short version: a few words, a few photos, and some fleeting feelings.
This trip wrapped up nearly three years of re-learning how to move in the alpine. I’ve been incredibly lucky to have mentors who’ve guided me along the way. And none of this would be possible without my wife, who’s tough enough to get nightly Garmin InReach pings instead of bedtime stories.
The plan was to do the full “Grand” traverse. But, as mountains tend to do, they reminded me that my goals and what the mountains have in store for me rarely line up—and that’s often for the best.
After a day out on the guide’s wall, then a rest/pack day, then a 3 am start to two huge days of climbing, moving, and colder weather than expected, we stood on top of Middle Teton on day 2 and 15 hours of moving, and I realised a few things:
15 hours of moving fast through fourth- and fifth-class alpine terrain is mentally exhausting.
That style of movement doesn’t light me up the way I thought it might.
If I had to do a third day of it, I might start to hate it—and I’d rather end on a high note.
Ledges, loose rock, sliding talus, and cliffs require a constant, razor-sharp headspace that eventually took its toll. (Mountain Lesson #1) (Most of this was on Middle Teton) And being home with my family to climb another day was more of a pull for me.
Overall we climbed and summited - Teewinot, Owen, Grand, and Middle Teton in about 20 hours of total moving time in 2 days. Went super light with no tent and 2 days of food. We even forgot utensils and a lighter to be ultra light. (Total joke, we had to pour our food into our mouths and almost were unable to light our jet boil)
The north face of the Grand via the Italian Cracks was something I was worried about for weeks leading up to the climb. Was I going to be able to do it consumed my headspace for weeks. Climbing 5.8 in the alpine was one thing, climbing it potentially cold with a 20+lb pack was another. (And I hate wind, which no longer holds the fear it once did)
But as we approached the north face of the Grand early on day two, with 30 degree temps and a stiff wind the years of preparation and training locked it perfectly.
It was some of the best climbing of my life even though every belay ledge was so cold it hurt. Climb, put gloves back on, belay, take gloves off, climb again. It was a gift.
Special thanks to - Exum guides and the Legend Brendan O’Neal for navigating this route with me. American Alpine Club Climbers Ranch for being a gem in this world. My mentors Carolyn Parker and Sevve Stember for making me feel so confident and strong for this effort. And always my climbing partner, Liv Zabka, Whats next?
One last comment - Most of the route was alone up until we reached the Spaulding route on the Grand. To anyone looking to attempt anything in the mountains - Please, for your sake and the sake of many others. Please learn everything you can before heading out. reach out, find a mentor, find a guide, learn. What I witnessed was nothing short of appalling seeing a number of the people descending and climbing the Grand. Learn your safety systems. Learn how to protect yourself. For everyone’s sake. I promise you will have more fun.
